Hajj - a Journey of a Lifetime

Tasnia Mozammel
Feb 13, 2024
18 min read

Islamic believers from around the globe are subjected to two forms of Pilgrimage - Hajj, among the five pillars of Islam and obligatory for each Muslim, at least once in their lifetime, and Umrah, the second most sacred event to Hajj and often referred to as a "minor pilgrimage." This post, although features a quick guide to Umrah, intends to primarily shed light on the Hajj experience in the Holy City of Makkah (Saudi Arabia) - a Journey of a Lifetime.

My family and I performed Hajj in July 2023. We were blessed with the opportunity to perform Umrah many times before and had underestimated the hardships of Hajj. However, with great hardship comes great reward. This post intends to provide details, highlights, and insights from our Hajj experience to guide your travel plan - which I ensure will be a journey of a lifetime! If this blog helps you in the slightest, please keep my family, Dr. Soleman, Jabeen Mozammel, and me in your prayers when you go. Feel free to also connect with me with any queries and I will do my best to provide guidance.

BEFORE YOU GO:

1. E-VISA. Saudi Arabia welcomes tourists and pilgrims from many nationalities via an easy e-Visa portal and swift application. We received our e-visas almost immediately when intending to visit for tourism and Umrah. However, for Hajj purposes, visas are most often acquired through the Hajj Package Organizers.

2. TRANSPORT. Uber and Taxis (on-site) are available in Saudi Arabia. During Umrah, either is a great way of getting around; there is not a significant price difference between the two. During Hajj, it is very rare to come across either Uber or a Taxi given multiple factors such as road closures in Makkah and Medinah, the overpopulation of pilgrims, etc. You're likely to walk in most places, so pack comfortable footwear!

3. INTERCITY TRAVEL. The BEST way to travel between Makkah to Medina is via the Haramain High-Speed Railway - a 453-kilometre-long bullet train with stops in Jeddah, King Abdulaziz International Airport, and King Abdullah Economic City en route the total journey of 2.5 hours! Be sure to check your luggage allowance before booking your tickets. The standard tickets were great for our itinerary and the seats were top-notch. Alternatively, buses and private cars are available at reasonable prices. During Hajj, the road trips tend to be significantly longer, each way taking up to 8 hours of journey due to heavy traffic. Highly recommend booking train tickets during the month of Hajj.

3. NUSUK APP. Download the Nusuk app on your phone - a digital gateway service that permits entry to specific mosques during Hajj and Umrah! The app is vital if visiting Masjid al-Nawabi (the Prophet's Mosque) in Medina. You cannot enter without a permit on the app.

4. SHOPPING FOR HAJJ. While Umrah is a lot simpler with fewer requirements, performing Hajj requires certain essentials, especially in the state of Ihram, including non-scented items. A full detailed list can be found below under subsection, Hajj - the Preparation.

5. LIST YOUR PRAYERS. The Hajj process can become incredibly overwhelming. I made a list of specific prayers for myself, my family and my friends to ensure I didn't forget anything. Hajj prayer, especially on the day of Arafat is said to be very strong.

Umrah - a Quick Guide

What is Umrah?

Umrah, the second most sacred event following Hajj, is considered a significant cleansing of sins, simultaneously enabling believers to rejuvenate and deepen their faiths. This minor pilgrimage may take place throughout the year except for the month of Zil-Hajj.

There is a particular procedure when intending to perform Umrah, such as entering the holy city of Makkah in the state of Ihram. There are also alternative methods of re-entering in Ihram, such as visiting Masjid Ayesha, which is one of the designated landmarks for pilgrims to put on the Ihram. A full detailed guide can be found on Saudi Arabia's official Nusuk site!

There are several hotels in Makkah. We stayed at the Makkah Clock Royal Tower, a Fairmont Hotel during our last Umrah visit. Beneath the Clock Tower, there is a chain of surrounding hotels such as Hilton Suites, Raffles, Al Safwah, Swissotel, and Conrad, an indoor shopping complex, and many conveniently located restaurants. Taxis and Uber are both easy to access throughout the year during Umrah, and taxis can be booked on-site for full city and outskirt Islamic tours.

The Kaaba (the Grand Mosque) - the Sanctuary of Allah

Mecca or Makkah, the birthplace of Prophet Muhammad and the Islamic faith itself, is the holiest city in Saudi Arabia situated in the western region. The city is only open to Muslims and hosts millions from around the globe to perform Umrah and Hajj (the annual pilgrimage), considered to be the ultimate blessing. The opulent complex of Masjid al-Haram or the "Sacred Mosque" surrounds the Kaaba, a cubic shrine, towards which observant Muslims orient themselves for prayer.

Performing Umrah - Tawaf & Safa Marwah

In its simplest form, Umrah, an act of worshipping Allah, is performed in two parts - "Tawaf," circumambulating the Kaaba seven times, followed by running between the mountains of Safa and Marwah seven times. Umrah is then completed by shaving or simply trimming hair. My uncle, Nurur Rahman Khan, heavily researched insights into Umrah and Hajj and shared this as one of the simplest guides to comprehend the process:

Saudi Arabia continues to innovate pilgrimage with the finest resources and latest technologies to ensure a smooth experience for all visitors year-round. Note: This guide is also crucial during your Hajj trip as you will be completing Umrah twice in the Hajj process as detailed in the sections below.

Hajj - the Preparation

What is Hajj?

Hajj is a sacred pilgrimage and one of the five pillars of Islam. It takes place annually during the month of "Zil-Hajj" or "Dhul-Hijjah," the twelfth month in the Islamic Calendar. Hajj begins on the eighth day of Zil-Hajj and lasts between five to six days depending on the sighting of the moon and the date of Eid al-Adha.

Each year during Hajj, Makkah grounds and neighbouring holy sites host numbers exceeding millions of pilgrims from around the world as preachers and worshippers crowd every corner with sincere hope and profuse longing. Islam subjects every Muslim believer to complete Hajj at least once in their lifetime with certain exceptions of course, such as for those suffering health or financial barriers.

Documentation & Other Requirements

Several documents are required for a Hajj Visa. It is different from a tourism or Umrah visa and is obtained by the Hajj Package Organizers. Basic information on documents, vaccinations, and other requirements can be found on the Saudi government website, however, package organizers should provide details during the process.

It is also helpful to download Nusuk and the Saudi Visa Bio app - the simplest way to securely submit their biometric data as a part of their visa application process, which is a requirement for many nationalities visiting Saudi Arabia. For some reason, during our submission, the app only worked on Samsungs, which was a slight hurdle as a dedicated family of Apple users. Once registered, you will receive confirmations like the ones pictured below. Make sure to keep printouts and screenshots throughout your journey. We went from Bangladesh as it was more affordable. {Please excuse my stretched-out face..}

Accommodation

Location: Accommodation reservations during the month of Zil-Hajj are most often made by Hajj Package Organizers. There is a specific itinerary during Hajj that requires some travel in and around the city, including some nights spent in the vicinity of Makkah. Hence, accommodation must be discussed with package organizers. My family and I, for instance, urgently requested hotel reservations as close to the Kaaba as possible. Hotel location is crucial as you may be walking approximately between 5 to 30 kilometres a day during Hajj.

Shifting vs Non-Shifting: There is also a difference between 'shifting' and 'non-shifting' accommodations. Make sure to contact your organizer and specifically request 'non-shifting.' This simply means that you will return to the same hotel room after the camping dates rather than returning to Mina or elsewhere outside of the obligatory itinerary. We selected non-shifting and were able to return to our same room after the camping dates. Some of our family friends who attended Hajj from Canada were unaware of this and were scheduled to return to Mina camp for the rest of their Hajj duration under shifting despite paying heftier for their package.

Shopping List & Tips

The photo below displays some of the essentials we carried in our bags. When you travel for Hajj, your luggage is likely to remain in the hotel whilst you journey to the outskirts for some days. During those days, it is wise to travel light as travel between holy sites will predominantly be by foot or overcrowded busses. There are also little to no sanitary systems as the travels in and around the city are campsites.

We completed our Hajj during the scorching month of July. Hence, alongside non-scented toiletries required to maintain Ihram, we carried the following in light sports bags:

Wet wipes - wet wipes and non-scented sanitiser for hygiene at campsites.
Light fan - non-electric light fan helped more than an electric one as the electric ones become heavy to carry and blow hot air.
Cotton handkerchief - handy for sweat, and convenient to cool yourself with cold water.
Small spray bottle - this will be your best friend! Refill it with cold Zam Zam water at any site and spray yourself when hot. I even drank from it at one point.
Body powder - for heat rashes, chafing, etc. Better to take a small portion in ziplocks.
Chafing stick - necessary, especially for men.
Light towel - although there are no shower facilities in Arafat and Muzdalifah, the Mina campsite has showers in the stalls. We carried Bangladeshi lightweight gamchas.
Non-scented soap and toiletries - everything must be non-scented and alcohol-free to maintain Ihram. I filled my small toiletries with soap (all cut into small pieces for one-time use), deodorant, sunscreen, sudo cream, and Vaseline.
Tissue paper & gloves - I separated my toilet and tissue paper into portions and carried them in ziplocks.
Portable Charger & Adapter.
Small empty water bottle - it is essential to carry a small plastic water bottle that can filled with cold water available in every corner sponsored by the Saudi government; and also used to collect stones from Muzdalifah on the last day of camping. The stones are small pebbles and are easier to carry in the bottles.
A small Quran or light reading material. Try not to carry anything too heavy, but light Islamic reading material is useful during the long days in the tents.

Clothing for Women during Ihram

For the campsites, you may want to carry an extra garment for women in case the one you have on somehow gets soiled. However, we found it pretty unnecessary and rather a burden to carry extra clothing. People tend to stay in one garment throughout the few camping dates. Recommended: Wear separate pieces during the camping dates due to the heat and avoid spoiling garments - light and loose cotton dress with sportswear under (biking shorts to avoid chafing, etc.), and a separate wrap scarf. NOT Recommended: full coverage hijabs - the wrap gives you the option to loosen around the neck and allow air, which the full coverage does not and can be suffocating in the heat. You're also only going to be wearing hijab outside women's tents, so the full coverage becomes restricting within too.

Clothing for Men during Ihram

Men's dress code during the state of Ihram comprises of two-piece towel-like white cloth set without buttons, seams, or hems. Recommended: It is best to carry 2-4 sets of Ihram for men as it can very easily get soiled in the campsites. My dad ended up leaving behind the soiled Ihrams rather than carrying them. There are also cotton and other materials to consider when purchasing Ihrams. Aside from the Ihram garments, men need to carry chafing sticks, powder, and sudo cream during the campsites. You will be in the Ihram garments for about 3-4 days and these essentials will aid in avoiding rashes. Outside of the state of Ihram, you can resume wearing regular clothes. Loose garments are still recommended due to heat.

Footwear

During the state of Ihram, it is prohibited to wear footwear that covers the foot or consists of stitching. Ankles and toes must be exposed. Recommended: Basically, you can only wear flip-flops or slippers that do not contain stitching. This applies to men and women. Not recommended: Sneakers, sliders, socks - it is too hot to wear sneakers anyway as well as prohibited during Ihram; socks and sliders, I personally find a safety hazard that can lead to slipping accidents in Hajj crowds Hajj. They also consist of stitches, hence, not permissible.

Preparing with Prayer

Once entering the state of Ihram, prepare with prayer and make niyyah (intention) in any language or recite Hajj prayer supplication - Labbaik Allahuma Labbayk...

Hajj - the Itinerary

There are about three different ways to perform Hajj and some of the steps may differ according to your organizer's itinerary. However, the map below illustrates a simplified step-by-step guide on what to expect. As mentioned previously, there will be a minimum of two Umrah rituals within the Hajj pilgrimage. The first is an entrance Umrah, and the finale is a 'biday' or farewell Umrah. Both of these are mandatory in the completion of Hajj. You can also perform additional Umrah outside of the obligatory ones.

1. Entering Makkah & Entry Umrah

The Hajj visa typically enables pilgrims to stay in Saudi for about 40 days. Since a vast majority of pilgrims spend their entire life savings to perform Hajj - the ultimate journey - many wish to make their time worthwhile by remaining the for full period. Nevertheless, the actual duration of Hajj is approximately 10 to 14 days.

In our itinerary, we arrived in Makkah 3 days before the 8th Dhul-Hijjah and in the state of Ihram. For women, this means simply grooming, clipping nails, and bathing; for men, this further includes dressing in the specific Ihram cloth.

When we arrived in Makkah, pilgrims were greeted with souvenir umbrellas prior to entering the busses towards the hotels. Passports will be taken by team leaders and Hajj IDs consisting of camp/tent numbers and hotel addresses are provided. These must be safely worn at all times in case we get lost. Passports are returned at the end of Hajj completion.

After reaching our hotel, we freshened up and then immediately ventured off to complete our entry Umrah. (The sooner you complete the Entry Umrah, the sooner you can be relieved from the state of Ihram.) Since pilgrims arrive at Makkah at different times, the Entry Umrah is not as crowded as it will become in the later days of Hajj.

Umrah may take a few hours depending on how you're performing it (the ground floor is quicker though typically more crowded; wheelchairs are only permissible on top floors). Despite slight exhaustion, Umrah is very spiritually enlightening and a beautiful experience. Photographed below is from the first day of our Hajj journey - the walk to Kaaba, Abbu Ammu (my parents) after our Entry Umrah, inside Safa Marwa, and Abbu (my dad) getting his hair trimmed by fellow pilgrims upon our exit. Once a man in the family or group has their hair trimmed or shaved, they can proceed to trim a small portion of the women's hair.

The Concept of Ihram

The state of Ihram is more than just a quick cleanse and attire change. It is a divine state for pilgrims that goes beyond the ceremonial clothing that establishes simplicity and uniformity among genders and social statuses. It is moreover concerned with an intention to beautify oneself before Allah. Hence, the state of Ihram is accompanied by rules that aid pilgrims to lose worldly temptations of vanity whilst aiming to establish a pure heart.

Permitted Acts in the State of Ihram:

Using a belt with pockets to carry your valuable possessions like cash, passports, and other travel documents with you.
Using unscented soaps for cleansing purposes.
Taking a bath. However, you need to be careful not to do something that causes your hair to fall or use scented products.

Prohibited Acts in the State of Ihram:

Using Perfume (including the use of perfumed soap and shampoo).
Women covering their faces or wearing hand gloves; men covering their heads, e.g., with a cap.
Men wearing any type of stitched clothing.
Trimming nails.
Cutting hair.
Engaging in sexual activity.
Hunting an animal.
Cutting down a tree.
Killing an insect (unless it poses a threat to you).
Smoking or taking drugs.
Engaging in a quarrel or fight. The notion of Sabr is profound in the state of Ihram. Hajj may pose intense trials of patience in the forms of physical and emotional hardship, however, it is important to overcome them to the best of your abilities to maintain Ihram, especially over the few days of camp.

For further details about Ihram, see here. Additionally, Muslim Pro is an excellent app to download that features easy-to-follow guides, insights, and details such as below. Read these guides this way ➡️.

An Itinerary Overview

2. Mina - 8th Dhul Hijjah

The first day of Hajj begins on the 8th Dhul Hijjah of the Islamic calendar. On this day, busses will take you to the Mina campsite. This is the first camp destination where pilgrims spend the night and pray a minimum of 5 prayers before proceeding to the next holy site.

Our bus came late in the evening, around 9-10 pm, after we prayed Maghrib at our hotel. It's crucial to await your group leader's guidance and stick together at this point as the millions of pilgrims shift simultaneously starting on the 8th Dhul Hijjah or the first day of Hajj. The bus journey from Makkah to Mina was approximately 20-30 minutes with bus traffic.

Recommended: The tents in Mina are compact. Although it is cooler in the evenings, I highly suggest quickly finding beds with air conditioning directed at you because the daytime is unbearably hot. I also recommend finding beds close to the tent doors, however not right next to the doors because there doesn't tend to be walking gaps between beds and people walk with dirty feet or shoes on the beds right next to the entrances. Also, make sure to take light snacks like energy bars, chia seeds, etc.

The washroom system in Mina is better than the following day in Arafat. There are showers installed in the stalls. Showers are allowed, but careful not to let hair fall. I french-braided my hair into pigtails and kept it that way for the full camp duration to avoid hair fall and maintain Ihram. Ngl, it's as rough as it looks, but is ultimately rewarding.

3. Day of Arafat - 9th Dhul Hijjah

The second day of Hajj begins on the 9th Dhul Hijjah of the Islamic calendar. On this day, busses will take you from Mina campsite to Arafat campsite, which is larger. Here, pilgrims spend the full day until Maghrib.

Note: that the above is a tentative schedule, however, the Saudi government arranges busses at different timings to maintain traffic control of pilgrims. Whatever itinerary you are assigned, you rest assured that the religious schedule is being followed. The objective is to complete 5 prayers in Mina and then reach Arafat before the Dhuhr prayer of the 9th Dhul Hijjah. We departed from Mina after Maghrib of the 8th Dhul Hijjah and spent overnight at Arafat until Maghrib of the 9th Dhul Hijjah.

Recommended:

Beds near AC. Find beds with DIRECT air con to you in Arafat. The tents here are significantly larger, hence, the ACs tend to disfunction and it gets even hotter than experienced at Mina.
Regulate food and drink. The washrooms in Arafat are a disaster. There is no way of sugar-coating this. Try to eat and drink reasonably as queues tend to be a minimum of a 40-minute wait under the scorching sun.
Follow instructions and stay indoors. Try to stay indoors and in the vicinity of your tents. When researching Arafat, you'll often see photos of a mountain. There is no need to try and climb it. Some old man in our group didn't listen to the leaders' instructions and ended up disappearing.
Prayer list. Finally, the day of Arafat is the holiest day in the Islamic calendar. It is a day of immense forgiveness and is said to be a day when Allah sets people free from the Fire. This will be the day when your prayers are deemed most significant. However, it may also be the hottest day, as it was for us, and hence overwhelming. It was personally so unbearably hot that I did not have the state of mind to think throughout the day. Hence, it was remarkably advantageous to have my list of prayers on my phone jotted down under Notes. After Arafat, you are not allowed to seek forgiveness throughout the rest of the Hajj journey and are meant to have faith moving forward that your prayers were heard and accepted.

4. Muzdalifah - 9th Dhul Hijjah

Continuing on the 9th Dhul Hijjah or the second day of Hajj, pilgrims prepare to depart from Arafat camps to move on to the last camp destination, Muzdalifah. Pilgrims are meant to spend the night of the 9th Dhul Hijjah in Muzdalifah, under the open air.

We departed from Arafat to Muzdalifah via bus. Here are some things to note:

Bed sheets and pillows. Muzdalifah is open-air and on the ground. Some people buy lightweight sheets, carpets, prayer mats, etc. to sleep on. Whilst, you may purchase these, I recommend also taking the light pillows and sheets from Arafat camp to Muzdalifah with you. We used them there and then left them in Muzdalifah before returning to Makkah. The Saudi government has people take care of everything after.
Sleeping conditions. There is no gender segregation in Muzdalifah. Everyone sleeps together under the same sky and on the same grounds. Unfortunately, yes, women sleep with hijabs on. But, it's not as uncomfortable as it sounds as the air is quite breezy. We also end up sleeping only a few hours as people start walking towards Jamarat a little prior to Fazr.
Washrooms. In Muzdalifah, it's best to reserve a spot near a washroom. The washrooms here are large and well-distanced, so it is both convenient and serves as a landmark in case anyone gets lost.
Stone collecting. In a small empty plastic bottle, collect 70 pebbles per person. It is unlikely that you will be returning to Muzdalifah to collect pebbles, so it's wise to just collect them at once for stone-throwing at Jamarat in the days that follow.

an Overnight Open-Air Experience...

After spending the night in Muzdalifah, the journey back via foot begins early in the morning - a little prior to Fazr. We only slept a few hours before walking towards Jamarat. The distance between Muzdalifah to Jamarat states approximately 10km, however, this is likely to differ based on where in Muzdalifah you were dropped off. There isn't much to do here as millions of pilgrims will journey together, unless you can make some special arrangement with your organizer.

5. Stoning Jamaarat - 10th-13th Dhul Hijjah

The walk from Muzdalifah to Jamarat is long and tough, especially considering factors such as heat, exhaustion, hunger, and attire. It's important to maintain a sound and strong mind. Moreover, after the first stoning in Jamarat, the walk from Jamarat to the main road is another trek where it is also difficult to find taxis on the first day of stoning. Best to make arrangements with your organizer for a ride back to the hotel from Jamarat. Alternatively, there is a walking path from Jamarat to Makkah which may total 15-30km on the first day. The Saudi government also does its best to ease the Hajj journey with Zam Zam water stops nearly steps apart and with police and helpers aiding with water sprays throughout the city.

We reached the hotel after quite a hectic journey. We received a text notification soon after reaching that our Qurbani (animal sacrifice) was completed. After receiving a text or notification of your Eid animal sacrifice, you can partly come out of the state of Ihram, i.e., we cleansed ourselves after the few days of camping and went back to regular clothing.

The diagram above states a performing another Umrah after the first stoning in Jamarat. However, this can be left for the end of the journey - after all the Jamarat stoning. Inquire your organizer about this as this was not a mandatory tawaf if I remember correctly. The second mandatory Umrah is the last one prior to exiting and upon completion of all the stoning and Hajj.

Walking Path from Jamarat to Makkah after Last Stoning, Saudi Arabia.

Congratulations! At this point your Hajj is complete!

Additional Thoughts to Make Your Journey Special

1. Donate a Quran

Before departing from Makkah, take an extra step and donate a Quran or a few with niyah (intention) in your name as well as loved ones including those deceased. There is a specific version that can be bought anywhere in Makkah that the Kaaba houses. You can place it anywhere in the Masjid with other books, and the idea is that whenever someone reads it, some prayers and blessings will pass on to the person whose intended name it was donated under. A beautiful thought and a lasting reward.

2. Personalized Prayer Mat

Located beneath the Clock Tower complex, there are a number of shops that offer souvenirs including personalized prayer mats. We got our memory foam mats with golden calligraphy at Makkah Tower. Take a special souvenir mat home with your name engraved in Arabic!

3. Spend a Memorable Moment at Cafe Moment

Cafe Moment, situated in Makkah Towers, offered a nice break during the Hajj experience and truly enabled us to catch a breath, socialize with our friends, and enjoy ourselves in the process which can become overwhelming. I hope a moment here will be as special on your journey as it was on ours.

A Visit to Medina

Medina is one of the two holiest cities in Saudi Arabia, located in the western region and known for its prime Islamic site, Al Masjid an-Nawabi or the "Prophet's Mosque." Although visiting Medina is not obligatory during the Hajj pilgrimage, travelling to Medina, the enlightened city remains a lifelong aspiration for many Muslims due to the city's influence on Prophet Muhammad's life according to Islamic history. We stayed in Medina for about three days after our Hajj completion rather than before to avoid exhausting ourselves prior. Alternatively, many pilgrims choose to visit Medina prior to Hajj and arrive in Saudi Arabia earlier accordingly.

Haramain High Speed Railway - Intercity Bullet Train!

The BEST way to travel between Makkah to Medina is via the Haramain High-Speed Railway - a 453-kilometre-long bullet train with stops in Jeddah, King Abdulaziz International Airport, and King Abdullah Economic City en route the total journey of 2.5 hours! Be sure to check your luggage allowance before booking your tickets. The standard tickets were great for our itinerary and the seats were top-notch. Alternatively, buses and private cars are available at reasonable prices. However, during Hajj, the road trips are significantly longer, each way taking up to 8 hours of journey due to heavy traffic. Highly recommend booking train tickets if visiting during Hajj.

Al-Masjid an-Nawabi

Al Masjid an-Nawabi, centred in Medina, is a significant site to Muslims as it is home to the tombs of Prophet Muhammad and early Islamic leaders including Abu Bakr and Umar. The Masjid is recognized by its striking Green Dome that shades the burial grounds, making it a key destination for millions of Muslims undergoing Hajj or Umrah. Make sure to download the Nusuk app which permits entry to Al Masjid an-Nawabi! The app is vital. You cannot enter the Prophet's corner without a reservation on the app.

GALLERY:

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